Saturday, April 4, 2015

Leica Summarit 50mm f1.5

Leica Summarit 50mm f1.5

Problem: Heavy haze on elements

A lot has been written about the Summarit lens. It was manufactured for 18 years (1939-1957 - Actually no lens were manufactured during WWII so its less than 18 years) with total of just under 75K copies made. A good place to read about the lens is here: slrlensreview.com.

The copy I've got dates back to 1954 and had a heavy haze on the elements around the aperture. This actually quite common in my experience with Leica lenses. The haze is an oily residue coming from the grease and lubricants evaporating and landing on the elements adjacent to the aperture. 8 out 10 times (not a real statistics) you can get it of with some alcohol.

Fig 1 - The Subject.

Fig 2 - Its kinda hard to see, but there is a lot of haze in there.

So now we know the problem, we need to get to the elements. The strategy, as in most cases will be to remove the back elements group. Most of Leica lenses I came across have to main assemblies, the focusing assembly and the optics+aperture assembly. As you can not remove the back elements without removing some parts of the focus assembly - the disassembly begins.

NOTE: I started with no references and just removed all the screws - This is not the right think to do. So ready the text because the photos can have some unnecessary stages.

(Don't do this step) - The first obvious screws are the three flat heads on the lens mount. I started by removing them and unscrewing the lens mount. With this done you actually removed a main part of the focusing mechanism, which means you'll have to assemble it just right later on.

Fig 3 - The three flat heads on the lens mount (don't remove)


Fig 4 - The lens mount removed, you still can't get to the retainer ring of the back element. So actually it got us nowhere.

The next screws in line are two screws on the focusing ring. You can remove only one of them.
Next are three set screws between the focusing and the aperture ring. You need to remove all three screws. Thats it. Don't touch the screws on the aperture ring.

Fig 5 - More screws. Note the mount ring should be on (didn't I say it already?!)

Now we get to the tricky part. At this point the optical assembly will turn freely, but that it, you can ture it for ever and nothing will happen.
What you need to do is to take a pin or fine screwdriver (it should be something sturdy, not a paper clip). You insert the pin into the one screw hole you opened on the focusing ring. The pin should enter into a hole in the inner ring that you can't see. But you can feel it, or if you look closely you can actually see it thru the hole.
Now the optical assembly can't turn and you can unscrew it. Yes, it is screwed hard(!). Try not to use the aperture ring for grip. There are actually tabs at the front of the lens, use them (with a spanner or something)

Fig 6 - The pin in the hole. You can see the tab on the front

Fig 7 - This is what we want to end up with

Fig 8 - The focusing assembly. The screwdriver I used as a pin is still in place.

From here on it's very straight. Unscrewing the outer retainer ring you need to remove 3 elements. Note that they are placed in a very tight fit (I'd like to see the tolerances on that machining drawing). So you need be patient removing the elements. 

Fig 9 - First element out

Fig 10 - All three out, the innermost element is on the left.

Thats it, now you have the aperture. Clean it. Open it and clean the element and the elements you removed and just assemble everything back.

Fig 11 - The aperture wide open (well closed, but you get the idea).



10 comments:

  1. Thanks, was a help, I made the same mistake, started at the back worked my way down, removed everything. Reassembly was a trying experience. Bye the way those two screws on the aperture ring are screw-pins. There deep into the slot for the hole to catch the aperture diaphram. That means if you over tighten the aperture will NOT turn, its a balancing act tweaking them just right! The three elements inside there tube housing are a real Bxxxh too get out, extremely tight fitted. Suction cups are great if you have them 25mm size, otherwise, very gentle prodding with a micro flat head to you begin to see them lift slightly, one at a time, the second one down has a brass spacer. After cleaning they insert easily and fall out easily, bummer, be patient face down with the front element helps in re-assembly. Don

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    Replies
    1. Happy to hear it was helpful.
      Thanks for the input.

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    2. Still have a focusing problem at infinity. I use a standard m39 > m4/3 adapter, the lens will NOT focus to infinity? What am i doing wrong? Could that brass spacer be in the wrong place? How deep does the back brass fine threaded retaining ring screw down into the housing of the rear four elements? Everything looks correct Focus helicoil moves smoothly, but still out of focus at infinity. regards Don

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    3. I removed the aperture ring screw-pins unnecessarily. I am struggling to get them back in. :(

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  2. How did you ever manage to unscrew the front of the lens from the rest? Mine is impossible to unscrew. And there is no tabs on the front of the lens. The tabs are only on the front retainer ring and after I removed the ring, there is no other tabs to use a spanner wrench.

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  3. Followed the instructions, my summerit now mostly clean. But how do i get to inside of front element? Can front glass pull away from barrel?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Rudy,
      Just want to know how do u get glass out the barrel?
      they are very tight!
      do u use some special tools ?
      could u share the process with me ?

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  4. how to get the glass out the barrel?
    Cry ~

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  5. Adding to Hu's question, how do i remove the glass elements out of barrel?

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  6. The instructions for dismantling this lens are very helpful.As to removing the elements from the barrel,
    this can sometimes be made mote difficult by small amounts of slight oxidisation or corrosion on the inside of the barrel and the element housings. If you have managed to remove them, clean the inside of the inside of the barrel and the element surrounds with a small piece of rouge paper. As to removing the elements, a hot air soldering unit with a fine nozzle on a medium heat can be used. DONT USE A HAIR DRYER!. Rotate the barrel slowly to expand the metal.Only use this as a last resort and don’t overheat as any balsam bonded doublets can be affected. I have used this method successfully on many f2 Summicrons and similar with close tolerance fitting front elements where it only necessary to heat the filter ring. As to cleaning, especially with fogging and fungus, use a soft tissue with Servisol 30 wiping gently, then finish with Isoprpol alchohol. BE VERY GENTLE as some Leica internal coatings are very soft, more so if there is some deterioration in the coating. Hope this helps.

    ReplyDelete