Hasselblad CZ 150 f 2.8 F
Problem: Aperture not working
Hasselblad (its Swedish, did you know?!) is probably a brand you don't need me to introduce you to. It's the mainstream medium format (6x6) camera system. Hasselblad has several lens types. Some, for the 500 series, have leaf shutter inside. So it makes those lenses a pain in the ass. Fortunately the lens in hand is a F type. The F type lenses are for the more recent 200 series, moving the shutter back to the body of the camera - where it should be.
This lens, in great shape, but the aperture doesn't work as it should be. The aperture will not move, not with the "DOF" button nor with the release on the base of the lens. So lets get to it:
Now as the aperture was still not working, although I've dropped more than a few drops of White Gas on it, I had to open up the aperture. This is done by removing 3 screws on the inner side of the assembly.
This lens, in great shape, but the aperture doesn't work as it should be. The aperture will not move, not with the "DOF" button nor with the release on the base of the lens. So lets get to it:
As most (all) of the time we start from the back. Removing the mount we get to the back of the lens.
Ones the mount is lifted you can also remove the back elements group. At this point you get access to the aperture.
Next you can pull out the whole aperture assembly. There are 3 screws holding it in place. So remove those. Next you need to turn the lens to a small focusing distance, making the aperture "go in". Don't over do it, as at this point you can undo the focus. With the aperture in you should pull the aperture setting pin (the long pin sticking up) away from its slot. Ones this was done, you can simply lift the assembly.
No you can lift (slowly and carefully) the cover and the blades plate.
I've removed all the blades and got them cleaned one by one with Q-tip and some White Gas.
The thinner blades are the inner ones, while the thicker are on the outside. Its quite an easy assembly, but you better work with tweezers and not with bear hands.
Ones you're done you should place back the blades. Start with the thin ones. Place every second hole (there are 10 holes, 5 for each type of blades).
The assembly back is straight forward just as the disassembly.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your effort and sharing!!!
I have similar problem with my 110 f2, T.T
May I ask you a few questions?
1. Any special tools required for taking the aperture assemble out, except for the right size screw driver?
Is that before the disassemble, you've un-choked (released) the len first?
2. Are there any no. of screw retaining the rear element?
3. As you've written above, there are 3 screws retaining the aperture assemble. With my poor eyes, I can figure out 2 only, on the 4th picture above - near 3 & 6 o'clock position, and where is the 3rd screw?
I would be very grateful for any extra detail / suggestion / recommendation / reply from you!
Fan
Fan, Thanks for reading.
DeleteI didn't use any special tools, basicly all you need is a set of screwdrivers. Maybe in your lens you will also need a lens spanner. In my case I didn't use it.
The rear element is just screwed in, no screws holding it.
The screw, its at about 9:30 just under the spring.
Remember that you lens could be some what different, so use my experience only as a guideline. You should keep track and take a lot of photos, so it will be easier to assemble back.
P.S.
I'm because you're from HK you get .HK :-)
Thx for your reply!
DeleteI can find and loosen the 3 screws which holding the aperture now,
but don't have tool to unscrew the rear element, planning to make one from pvc pipe.
And when i turn the focus to the nearest, its a hard stop, can't go further,
so can't get the aperture control pin out,
i wonder should i unscrew the 4 screws and take the guide out 1st, but i guess i would have to deal with 90 deg screwdriver/tool.
Last but not least, actually i can stop down the aperture by DOF preview, but not by the camera itself, the control driver on the camera side seems work correctly.
Hopefully i can disassemble it safely & just the problem of sticky aperture blade >.<
Ar, just find that this is blogspot.hk, and I actually live in hk too.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteJust to add to this old post: the construction of the 110mm Planar f2 seems to be identical.
ReplyDeleteIn case the rear lens block is screwed in too tight, you can also take out the iris assembly with the rear optics still in place. Just follow the steps described in the article, but leave the optics in place. Once out, it is easier to unscrew the optics from the aperture.